Saturday, March 5, 2011

Rio Life in 3D

 
Going up (and down) the many steps of the Morro Santa Marta, (-22.9479,-43.1940)  one of the traditional Rio slums known as simply  'Dona Marta'  which has now  been semantically 'upgraded' to 'Community' status because of its expanding urban infrastructural improvements such as a 5 station inclined plane tram, a developing power line distribution and sewage collections pipeline, is still not for the faint of heart, exercised-deprived, agora or acrophobic....

steps, steps, steps...
One can only imagine the outcome of a brain  (human or other) developing in this constant very  3-D world where all can be seen from above, and maybe even  seen  even better from still further above, in a vertical cascade of observations! Observe and be observed. All is triangulated, horizontal surfaces heavily competed for by all species, human or otherwise. 
Rio life has developed from 3D to 4D ! The traditional old-school 'favela' shacks originally made from the cheapest materials available such as discarded planks and plywood, ( back in the day when wood was cheap...) over the years are gradually demolished and rebuilt into solid brick and mortar houses with aluminum frame windows. Asbestos water reservoirs are being substituted for PVC or GRF  blue containers with proper tops to keep Dengue mosquitoes away. Sat dishes bring in the world's latest info as well as the probably much more important local telenovelas. Washing machines now do the heavy  laundry and aircons cool the worst of the days insolation on the hillside... No more carrying 20 kg water filled tin cans uphill on dirt paths like in the Marcel Camus 1959 version of Black Orpheus! Clean city water for all... at no cost ! Mind you, electricity  also is generally something just hooked onto as another favela freebie...Things have definitely changed ! Tempus fugit...!


The place attracts visitors from all over the world, including some of the more the musically inclined... one of which has become immortalized on a vertical surface, others however, are not so lucky!

Still, the beast is growing, not being handled with authority... The fad (and the perfect excuse) is to be 'social' these days... ! Rather 'please and pacify' 'the people' than invest properly in decent infrastructure such as good transportation systems which would allow people to commute to towns in abundant flat lands  in a 100 km radius of Rio. Better keep these people surviving, thriving, developing in the risky hillsides of rainy Rio than face the risk of losing votes or political status. After all, these are hundreds of thousands of voters with a room with a view!

Boris

Boris
 Returning from a recent trip to a coastal town, I could not help but reflect on the sadness of dog's relationship with Man. The recent heavy rains that hit Rio's hillside towns took a toll of over 1,000 human victims, 800 of which lost their lives, but also probably at least three times as many pets who were lost or died in one way or another. Dogs such as Boris (below) are really cute pets to take care of homes, many times occupied only during the summer months. Bought in most cases for their appearances or fame for taking care of property and people, they sometimes are even trained professionally. An account given by a friend owning one such weekend leisure property tells how these dogs are now in total distress... Whimpering, begging for lap, human attention, to stay close to their weekend masters all the time, and probably to be taken away to a cozy apartment in a big city, away from natural disasters, and the whole natural environment. if possible! Their property had a limiting wall which was torn away by the recent floods. The backyard became open to all. These weekend pets are probably shut most of the time out of the house, in a damp cold kennel of sorts if lucky, having to defend the perimeter from 'invading' species, including probably other lost/displaced stray dogs and an assortment of also displaced wild species equally  disturbed by the heavy rains, including large opossums. The constant rain did its part of a psychological flogging on these poor canine home guards, torture enhanced by the noise of continuous thunderstorms for over 20 consecutive days, only to be followed by the extra 'thunder' of low flying helicopters looking for victims or the media crews just filming material damages for the 8 o'clock news. I can't imagine what Haiti was like. The following pictures were all taken on the same street, close to the beach, far away from Rio's hillside towns. But the apparent intent is the same: to show passers by there are ferocious guards on the block. Something difficult to reconcile when you get to play with pup Boris up above...I wonder how much training the owners get before they are allowed to keep a pet!




Sunday, February 13, 2011

Sweden wins over US & Russian hearts

Who would guess? Rachel fell in love with a Russian, Ruth with an American.... The saying in lower latitdues  is that anything is possible below the Equator. Not even the infamous Portuguese or Spanish Inquisitions were very successful in extraditing heretics back to the Old World! Gracias a Dios!  

So, Alex Balbachevsky arrived in Brazil as a young man largely as a result of a Romanov connection, his father being a high ranking officer attached to the tzar. However, that is another strong story, better narrated in Ricardo Balbachevsky Setti's blog  (in Portuguese for those of you who can...!). Anyway, the two 'foreign' suitors to Ruth and Rachel had to pass through the approval of Swedish mum Eva Landahl and her energetic husband Hildebrando Oliveira, a publisher of car and fashion magazines in São Paulo, educated in Brighton, England. Oliveira was as much an adventurer as a businessman. Eva passed away in 1944 and Oliveira remarried a Southern 'girl' - Mildred Avellar

Whatever chemistry was involved in the prenuptial arrangements, Eva and Hildebrando got it right... Dick and Alex, were to the best of my knowledge great admirers of each other, and loving spouses of Eva's 'girls' to the ends of their agreements. Coincidentally, as a young engineer, Dick had spent some time in Russia, and Alex definitely was very fluent in English, AND they both enjoyed chatting over a little aqua vitae, especially with a good sailing motif on the bottle's label such as 

Saturday, February 12, 2011

Another deck, another day


I never took much notice at the diversity of men on this deck back in 77. Ulrich St. Paul, Peter Bayley and myself, were one with the native deckhands aboard the Amazon National Research Institute's fisheries research vessel for a week or so, as we collected fish from tributaries upstream of Manaus.The stories were great, the food average, but the dessert was my favorite... Cans of preserved bacuri an Anacadriaceae typical of the Amazon, looking like a mango, tasting somewhat like a litchi, but more pronounced. 

Here in these 'abundant' freshwarers, I knew I had made the right choice back in Fortaleza, despite the close encounter with the sharptoothed-sandpaper-skinned kind,  in full strength seawater...Fish by day, mosquito by night... Still it was fantastic to see close up, piranhas, arowanas, arapaimas and croaking fish. During stops I could wander through forest trails and see the logging, the native inhabitants, their homes and problems with local parasitic species and lack of medical attention. All new to me. I hauled back home, boxes of fish samples and orchids collected from felled trees. 

Dark Eyes

At 18, my hero was Igor (Landahl-Oliveira) Balbachevsky. Although only 7 years older, he was already 24, married and had 2 kids! On and off, I had visited the Balbachevsky's in SP. An incredible house with many surprises for me. I vaguely remember a  kind of small, dark backyard with a rabbit and a dog. my cousins Lidia - the blond bombshell and her ochi chornya when angry,   and Betty, always the studious intellectual. Igor, was definitely the ultimate macho and an incredibly talented artist, who for a living did Mandrake and other illustrated cartoons by day,  and boxing, by night - a wierd thing to do in the 1970s, times of Peace & Love. 

At 18 I was already in search of a definition for a second career choice. Having been accepted at Agronomy school the year before, and being totally disappointed with the facilities at the state college in Rural Rio, I decided to wander  'North' . So, I called on Igor who was living in Fortaleza, CE and asked him if I could crash in for some time... A Fisheries Engineering college had opened there and the excuse was to check its program and facilities. To get a feel for this, potential career in the marine environment Igor, myself and Pedro Pankov, - another SP second generation Brazilian of Russian extract - talked some of the local fishermen to take us aboard on  their 'jangada'  to fish. Cost? 8 bottles of the cheapest booze, cachaça, guaranteed to get everyone drunk, would do...I had but a dram during the 10 hours or so we spent at sea, but all bottles were dry when we finally landed... My dear friend Pedro, who is still the one of us more often on a boat, couldn't be in worse shape... drunk as a skunk and puking during the whole trip, he looked green as green can be. Igor was having a hell of a time, laughing his head off, thoroughly enjoying Pedro's misery, and my naiveté...and I guess, the distance from the problems on shore. At one point, when the wind had dropped to nada,  I asked if I could dive of the boat for a swim. He and the captain said sure! Sure enough, the wind picked up, and fortunately I was tied by a rope... During this little fun time, just as I re-boarded, a white-tip shark swam in parallel to the jangada and followed us for a little while...! When I complained, they laughed all the harder...  
 
The sailing experience included going off to 'a risca'  a definite trace in the sea, where suddenly the greenish, turbid coastal waters meet  'blue waters', turquoise  blue waters, because of the huge increase in depth. It is along this 'line' that  hungry oceanic migratory fish like tunas come in search of small coastal fish. All day long, with our artisanal hook and lines we pulled in shiny, bizarre, colourful fish, and ate fried manioc flower and fish downed with cachaça, of course. It was enough for me to decide a career on...


But Igor was in trouble, of all sorts...Too many very loose women, him a bright blue-eyed good looking hippie-like artist from 'the South' and also kind of loose in town... At home, a troubled relationship with a beautiful, intelligent hard-working wife and smart kids to look after. Cloudy horizon, turbid waters.. So he and I moved from the home to a tiny house by the sea. He owed everything, had no income... Aside from the very few clothes he took with him, the only other material belonging he cared enough to carry were the art books, from Russia. Somehow, I managed to send them back to Rachel (Landahl) Balbachevsky in SP. I can clearly see the inspiration of this painting of his from these books, although the original material in the books  was much more depressing. Still, here the sky is cloudy, but somehow there is hope. But Igor was on a long journey. His talent lost in a sea of booze. He died on on island, true to his calling, painting until the very end.

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

A cold walk in Scotland


December 2010 has been the coldest winter in 20 years, local papers say. It  was nice walking through Stirling again, after many years, even if it was ‘quite cool’… Walking through town, a real Christmas shopping atmosphere enveloped us participating in a technical workshop at Stirling University. The walk up to the castle was either over snow, or black ice on the road… very slippery. We passed the old town jail, and veered off to the town’s cemetery, a place I had not visited previously, Why not? Many celtic crosses later and a few falls, we could see a grand view of  the castle, and in the background Sheriffmuir hills covered in snow extending eastwards in the direction of St Andrews, a glimpse of the Ochils, with Alva and Alloa somewhere at the foothills.  It was reassuring to see Robert the Bruce, still with his hand on the sword’s hilt at the castle gate overlooking  Stirling. Back at the university, the pond had all but completely frozen, leaving just a small pool for the whole bird population to concentrate sadly, in need of rest, and some food. 
Stirling Castle


Robert the Bruce

Wallace monument, Sheriffmuir hills in background 
Some hungry frozen friends

Sunday, December 26, 2010

The sky is round

By Carina Sunesson



My grandmother, she would have been a hundreds years now, this week, maybe today. My grandmother, daughter born out of wedlock, daughter of a poor farmers child, Anna Sofia and “Father unknown”, Henrik, the son of a merchant. A family that never existed, a family that never was to be. A love story between two young people, living in the same little town but in different worlds, at another time. A child is born, a child that fifty-three years later would become my grandmother.

Her father was a vagabond that she never met, other than through his words. Words on letters, words on postcards, glowing and sparkling words, he was an artist and he painted the world with his words. He was one of eight siblings to a merchant from the south parts of Sweden, a man of adventure and respect who moved to the North parts of the country in his early years. He opened a bookshop, he opened another one, and another one. By the time he met his wife to be, Brita Catharina, the daughter of a shipper, he had stores all over the North parts of Sweden, he was a man of respect and honor.
Sometimes he went to visit his grandmother, who lived just outside town on a wealthy farm. The small road was covered by the endless forests of Sweden on both sides, and small typical houses of poor farmers was the only sign of life he was pass on his way to
visit his grandmother. The houses were simple, made in wood and painted in red, most of the houses where put close to each other, and they became tiny villages by themselves. In one of those houses a girl was living with her father, they were the poorest people around, the man of the house smelled vodka and lost dreams. But his daughter! It was the most beautiful girl he had ever seen, she was like an unreachable dream and Henrik fell in love. Henrik invented errands to his grandmothers house, just
to get a glimpse of Anna Sofia, and they started to see each other, they talked and they laughed, they loved and they played.
All of a sudden Anna Sofia was pregnant. A sign to the world of their forbidden love. New demands and terms were to rise in their lives, and their destinies would change for ever, their lives would never be the same again. Marriage was out of question, Henrik could never marry a girl who had a father who did nothing but let time and life pass by. Now was the time to make decisions and to make life regular again, back to normal.

Anna Sofia was sent to Stockholm before people would notice the accident and start gossiping about who the father could be. The father of Henrik paid for the arrangements, an investment to avoid shame and to maintain the respect that his name had.  Anna Sofia could come back home later if she wanted, she could adopt the baby, or give it away, anything but keeping it and bring it back.
A baby girl was born – my grandmother, in the month of June when the flowers are bursting in Sweden, when the summer nights are warm and soft like velvet. The sun was gentle the day she was born and Anna- Sofia never came back to her hometown. For ten years she did not live with her daughter, she was placed in a foster home at Mami Noa, one of Sweden´s most famous writers of the time. Anna Sofia visited her every weekend, my grandmother thought it was an aunt that came to see her. But the heart of Anna Sofia was breaking, she could not live the lies anymore. Her father was dead, she had no one, she wanted to be a mother, the love for the child was not possible to keep inside anymore. Anna Sofia went to get her child, and she never spent a day without her for as long as she lived.
Henrik was sent to America, he could spend a few years with his uncle who had emigrated a few years earlier, time would heal and people would forget about this story if he left for some time. Everything the uncle had written to his brother was not exactly true, life was more difficult than he cared to tell his family back home. His wife Anna had fell in love with another man on the ship over to America, she moved with him to Utah together with their children. The children did not carry his last name anymore, he was all alone, he went to California and he had no plans what so ever to care for a newphew. Life was hard as it was.
His uncle, Per Oscar, he had dreams of going to Brazil. He longed for happiness, some money to get by, he wanted to be alive! All those years when he had saved money for the tickets to go to the New World, all those long days when he sold his merchandise to the houses back home. No one had any money to buy his things, he started a bakery instead, he did anything to get his family and himself to America, to the adventure and to the possibilities in life. This all seemed so distant, just like it never existed. And there, in America, he was still no one, they spoke a language he did not understand, they had cars and horses and shops. No one needed him for anything, he was a stranger to everyone, one of hundreds of thousands, he was a stranger to himself. So no thank you, no nephew to care for. He went to Sao Paolo, he had met Kristina from his home village, love was once again embracing him. Per Oscar from a small village in Sweden, had found his place in life, and he became Pedro, a man living in Sao Paolo.
Henrik knew nothing about this, he left for America, eager to see his loved uncle again. In February 1910, a few months before his daughter was to be born, he entered the ship Tasso from the city of Trondheim in Norway. He wanted to see it all, America, Caribbean, the world! He wanted to travel where the winds brought him, he lived and he lived for life itself, for every breath, for every moment.
When my grandmother died, we found a cigar box in one of the closets. It was full of old letters and postcards, they were colored by time, worned but still painted with the breaths of time, still full of life and love. Caring, glowing and shining. She never told anyone of these letters, they were safe as a poker hand, it was her only piece in the puzzle that was her father, the only way she could talk to him, touch him. The letters belonged to her only, they were the deepest room of her soul. The last letter is dated 1955, the same year that Henrik died in San Francisco, California.
Henrik visited the Caribbean too, on the backside of a postcard he tells my grandmother about the stars in the round sky protecting the Caribbean nights. My grandmother never came here, she born in a time when travelling was not an option, a time when someone who emigrated was lost forever, and maybe existed in a few letters, if even that. The closest she ever came to this Caribbean island was by reading the words of her father, and through the life long journey of her heart.
Henrik never returned to Sweden. He left that day in February 1910 to never walk the grounds of his homeland again.  He stayed out there in the world living his adventures, and my grandmother stayed in Sweden waiting.
They never met. Time goes by, never resting, days and nights turn into years, generation after generation arrive and leave life,  and the great grandchild of Henrik was the one who ended up living under the stars in the round sky, protecting the Caribbean nights that he told his daughter, my grandmother about.
It was me.