Wednesday, December 29, 2010

A cold walk in Scotland


December 2010 has been the coldest winter in 20 years, local papers say. It  was nice walking through Stirling again, after many years, even if it was ‘quite cool’… Walking through town, a real Christmas shopping atmosphere enveloped us participating in a technical workshop at Stirling University. The walk up to the castle was either over snow, or black ice on the road… very slippery. We passed the old town jail, and veered off to the town’s cemetery, a place I had not visited previously, Why not? Many celtic crosses later and a few falls, we could see a grand view of  the castle, and in the background Sheriffmuir hills covered in snow extending eastwards in the direction of St Andrews, a glimpse of the Ochils, with Alva and Alloa somewhere at the foothills.  It was reassuring to see Robert the Bruce, still with his hand on the sword’s hilt at the castle gate overlooking  Stirling. Back at the university, the pond had all but completely frozen, leaving just a small pool for the whole bird population to concentrate sadly, in need of rest, and some food. 
Stirling Castle


Robert the Bruce

Wallace monument, Sheriffmuir hills in background 
Some hungry frozen friends

Sunday, December 26, 2010

The sky is round

By Carina Sunesson



My grandmother, she would have been a hundreds years now, this week, maybe today. My grandmother, daughter born out of wedlock, daughter of a poor farmers child, Anna Sofia and “Father unknown”, Henrik, the son of a merchant. A family that never existed, a family that never was to be. A love story between two young people, living in the same little town but in different worlds, at another time. A child is born, a child that fifty-three years later would become my grandmother.

Her father was a vagabond that she never met, other than through his words. Words on letters, words on postcards, glowing and sparkling words, he was an artist and he painted the world with his words. He was one of eight siblings to a merchant from the south parts of Sweden, a man of adventure and respect who moved to the North parts of the country in his early years. He opened a bookshop, he opened another one, and another one. By the time he met his wife to be, Brita Catharina, the daughter of a shipper, he had stores all over the North parts of Sweden, he was a man of respect and honor.
Sometimes he went to visit his grandmother, who lived just outside town on a wealthy farm. The small road was covered by the endless forests of Sweden on both sides, and small typical houses of poor farmers was the only sign of life he was pass on his way to
visit his grandmother. The houses were simple, made in wood and painted in red, most of the houses where put close to each other, and they became tiny villages by themselves. In one of those houses a girl was living with her father, they were the poorest people around, the man of the house smelled vodka and lost dreams. But his daughter! It was the most beautiful girl he had ever seen, she was like an unreachable dream and Henrik fell in love. Henrik invented errands to his grandmothers house, just
to get a glimpse of Anna Sofia, and they started to see each other, they talked and they laughed, they loved and they played.
All of a sudden Anna Sofia was pregnant. A sign to the world of their forbidden love. New demands and terms were to rise in their lives, and their destinies would change for ever, their lives would never be the same again. Marriage was out of question, Henrik could never marry a girl who had a father who did nothing but let time and life pass by. Now was the time to make decisions and to make life regular again, back to normal.

Anna Sofia was sent to Stockholm before people would notice the accident and start gossiping about who the father could be. The father of Henrik paid for the arrangements, an investment to avoid shame and to maintain the respect that his name had.  Anna Sofia could come back home later if she wanted, she could adopt the baby, or give it away, anything but keeping it and bring it back.
A baby girl was born – my grandmother, in the month of June when the flowers are bursting in Sweden, when the summer nights are warm and soft like velvet. The sun was gentle the day she was born and Anna- Sofia never came back to her hometown. For ten years she did not live with her daughter, she was placed in a foster home at Mami Noa, one of Sweden´s most famous writers of the time. Anna Sofia visited her every weekend, my grandmother thought it was an aunt that came to see her. But the heart of Anna Sofia was breaking, she could not live the lies anymore. Her father was dead, she had no one, she wanted to be a mother, the love for the child was not possible to keep inside anymore. Anna Sofia went to get her child, and she never spent a day without her for as long as she lived.
Henrik was sent to America, he could spend a few years with his uncle who had emigrated a few years earlier, time would heal and people would forget about this story if he left for some time. Everything the uncle had written to his brother was not exactly true, life was more difficult than he cared to tell his family back home. His wife Anna had fell in love with another man on the ship over to America, she moved with him to Utah together with their children. The children did not carry his last name anymore, he was all alone, he went to California and he had no plans what so ever to care for a newphew. Life was hard as it was.
His uncle, Per Oscar, he had dreams of going to Brazil. He longed for happiness, some money to get by, he wanted to be alive! All those years when he had saved money for the tickets to go to the New World, all those long days when he sold his merchandise to the houses back home. No one had any money to buy his things, he started a bakery instead, he did anything to get his family and himself to America, to the adventure and to the possibilities in life. This all seemed so distant, just like it never existed. And there, in America, he was still no one, they spoke a language he did not understand, they had cars and horses and shops. No one needed him for anything, he was a stranger to everyone, one of hundreds of thousands, he was a stranger to himself. So no thank you, no nephew to care for. He went to Sao Paolo, he had met Kristina from his home village, love was once again embracing him. Per Oscar from a small village in Sweden, had found his place in life, and he became Pedro, a man living in Sao Paolo.
Henrik knew nothing about this, he left for America, eager to see his loved uncle again. In February 1910, a few months before his daughter was to be born, he entered the ship Tasso from the city of Trondheim in Norway. He wanted to see it all, America, Caribbean, the world! He wanted to travel where the winds brought him, he lived and he lived for life itself, for every breath, for every moment.
When my grandmother died, we found a cigar box in one of the closets. It was full of old letters and postcards, they were colored by time, worned but still painted with the breaths of time, still full of life and love. Caring, glowing and shining. She never told anyone of these letters, they were safe as a poker hand, it was her only piece in the puzzle that was her father, the only way she could talk to him, touch him. The letters belonged to her only, they were the deepest room of her soul. The last letter is dated 1955, the same year that Henrik died in San Francisco, California.
Henrik visited the Caribbean too, on the backside of a postcard he tells my grandmother about the stars in the round sky protecting the Caribbean nights. My grandmother never came here, she born in a time when travelling was not an option, a time when someone who emigrated was lost forever, and maybe existed in a few letters, if even that. The closest she ever came to this Caribbean island was by reading the words of her father, and through the life long journey of her heart.
Henrik never returned to Sweden. He left that day in February 1910 to never walk the grounds of his homeland again.  He stayed out there in the world living his adventures, and my grandmother stayed in Sweden waiting.
They never met. Time goes by, never resting, days and nights turn into years, generation after generation arrive and leave life,  and the great grandchild of Henrik was the one who ended up living under the stars in the round sky, protecting the Caribbean nights that he told his daughter, my grandmother about.
It was me.

Monday, August 23, 2010

Le regard de l'Aviateur

Its impossible to escape History walking through Rio. Not too far from my home walking Rua das Laranjeiras, I stumble upon an aviator reading details on his plane and about his feat, under a model of of the  flying boat  Savoia-Marchetti S.64 - a single-engine, single-spar wing, wooden biplane aircraft powered by a single Isotta-Fraschini Asso 500RI, 373 kW (500 hp) engine mounted between the upper and the lower wings.
Carlo Del Prete was a pioneer aviator of the 20’s who together with Arturo Ferrarin flew the "Santa Maria" - a Savola Marchetti S64, between Monticello, close to Rome, Italy and Touros, close to Natal, Brazil in the year 1928. The 7,188 Km span was covered in 49 hours 19 minutes - a world record in direct flights.  There was great commotion in Italy as well as in Brazil.
Treated as heroes in Brazil, Carlo and Arturo stayed on for a while and later flew to the capital at the time,  Rio de Janeiro, where they were received with honors. Carlo Del Prete eventually died in the air flying an S62 which crashed in Guanabara Bay in August 1928. Carlo was held as a hero in both Italy and Brazil as well as a symbol of approximation between both countries. They had planned a visit to Rio Grande do Sul where large Italian immigrant communities exist. The plane for this trip was not well prepared and as a result, it crashed over the Bay of Guanabara, falling from a height of 40m, where Del Prete suffered many severe bruises and exposed fractures on both legs. He was rescued by a passing boat but died as a result of gangrene infection after unsuccessful treatment of the multiple injuries he sustained. A full account of his story (in Portuguese) can be found at The peaceful sculpture in Laranjeiras marks the site where  the two airmen received their homage at the Italian Embassy.

Traxler’s Blue Frangipani

Bernhard Traxler is becoming an ‘old’ friend of mine... basically its his long  blond hair turning gray... but also because I have known him over the years, and  feel close to his way of reporting nature in his works of art... I was initially attracted to this Austrian born ‘hippie’ of the Hippie Fair in Ipanema because of a fly on one of his canvases... Well, I though it was a fly, a common housefly sitting on what struck to me as a very, very small canvas, maybe about 5 x 5 cm. As I approached to examine the insect, other small objects popped before my eyes on other Lilliputian canvases, such as a recently extinguished match stick, small butterflies and so on... Very realistic, and all very tiny, painted with the help of some magnifying glass which belonged to a grandfather in Austria...! We, at the university, did not accomplish the level of detail Traxler managed, even though operating modern powerful Zeiss lens-mounted stereoscopic binocular dissecting scopes ! I took Traxler down to look at these one day and he exclaimed ‘That’s not fair ! ‘ ...

Traxler is creative and mutating... Fortunately, I got a hold of one or two copies of his ‘nautical chart watercolours of Rio’  phase where  he etched in with watercolours, in stark perspective discrepancy to the original navigation chart, the geologic marvels of Cidade Maravilhosa along the coastline, including Gavea Rock, the Corcovado (where Christ the redeemer statue is mounted) Sugar Loaf and so on... What an insight...
Traxler's view of the universe (from his hammock)

Now, its the Blue Frangipani...Why not? That’s what irritates me! These artists look at the same things we scientists do, but can come up with a totally marvellous and more interesting, entertaining not to mention decorative depiction of natural biological beauty. Even using just one colour! And all this done from a view from his hammock in Maricá, Rio de Janeiro... it’s humiliating! Best thing is - he can actually sell the product of his insight while we have to chase grants....

By the way, for those like Terri, looking to contact Bernhard, try this email: bernhardtraxler@ig.com.br

Monday, August 16, 2010

Blogging with Brau

Braulio de Nazaré and little friend Maria Eduarda

 Brau (Braulio de Nazaré) is our old time friend and former crew champ of Botafogo Football and Crew Club in Rio de Janeiro. I had the pleasure of having lunch with him and 'Prince' Luis Sacopan, head of Quilombo Sacopan, and his little grandchild Maria Eduarda. 









Luis Sacopan is not only head of the proud Sacopan people, but also an accomplished musician,  a local 'pagodeiro' (Rio roots samba style) and master of the Sacopan carnival band known as 'Rola Preguiçosa.' Our lunch  meeting was 'assisted' by 'Scooby-Doo' the resident canine, better known to neighbors as 'O Psicopata'...
Prince Luis Sacopan and Princess Maria Eduarda

O 'Psicopata'
So, over Tia Tininha's wonderful medium-rare done contra-filé, loose white rice, very honest  not watered-down black beans and sauteed freshly cut mustard leaves on garlic, I got updated on the local ecology happenings and misadventures of the Quilombo's inhabitants such as the close encounter with an unusually large live specimen of Boa constrictor (no photo available) which just 'happened' to descend into the Quilombo's patio (probably looking for some fresh free-range and live chicken), and the forest fires of last month - which sent neighbors scurrying out of their homes in the next door 'Chácara' condominium just above the Quilombo. Torrential  rains earlier this year left huge erosion scars on the hillsides above and around Quilombo Sacopan.

 
 
 
 
The city council has restored, to a limited extent, the the terrain from the erosion caused by recent rains. It claims the planted grass will help contain future landslides... Hmmm.. I'm not too convinced this will really work...It looks promising where the grass is in open sunlight, such as on the hillside next by, but  in areas closer to the quilombo, i.e. in the midst of the forest, sun-loving grass is not doing very well,.
 
A visit by a friendly British agronomist is soon due, and we'll see what he will propose...

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Pip, Pip, Hooray!


Finally, (baby) Pip is around and believe it or not, smiling! He does seem to have a very peculiar sense of humor, probably acquired locally in Southampton.... Initially, I had my doubts as to if he was really ever going to smile, but Carolina reassured me saying it was just a question of time, before he could properly focus his little eyes... And sure enough, the day has come, and now that he can focus on our faces, he apparently thinks we are hilarious! Judging from the Dad and Mom's smiles, there should be no problem... But he is definitely a determined little guy! I noticed he does like to listen to people, and specially French, in the kitchen, where he seems to enjoy the aroma of Yvonne's cooking with Radio Monte Carlo playing in the background. He says 'Obrigado' to Pia, Bitty, Denise, Maria Lúcia and all of Vóvó Lolô's fan club and Thank You to all those who sent him a mountain of presents which make him look and feel happy! Carolina has now set up a number of 'stations' around the house to have this restless little guy enjoy himself with different scenarios, toys and distractions... Otherwise, as with most little guys his age, it's feed & sleep! (not to mention other also important functions...)



2 Cousins



Thomas, the Designer, Pedro, the Architect to be... At home, discussing projects for the future close and near, such as taking off to Australia for a course in Environmental Architecture, and building new products with composite materials. Fine times!

Friday, August 6, 2010

Big Day!

Well, here we are, the Big Day has come, where the efforts of years of study invested finally have come to the successful conclusion of a higher degree...!
So from today (Aug 5, 2010) Thomas is now officially a certified Designer, by UniverCidade a well known accredited higher education establishment  in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

The ceremony was short, but functional and gave all the opportunity to leave relatively early to commemorate with their family and friends... which we did with Ana Luiza, at Giuseppe's Italian ristorante ,  downtown.

 After, all that was left, was to go back home on the subway, and relax... Tomorrow will be a new day!

Carpe Diem !

Saturday, March 6, 2010

Matsuda Rides Again

For a great bike ride in the bright sun, you need more than sunscreen. Thus, in their 150 km ride from Visconde de Mauá to Barra do Piraí, Thomas Scott and Leandro Egito, (T&L) put on their special protection gear basically comprised of a light canvas hat for Leandro, and a pair of Matsuda specs recovered from uncle Michael's trash bin, and duly restored by the Aspiring Designer - Thomas...

It all started with the need to deliver a young, however reluctant to cooperate, crossbred mare, descendant of Arabians and Quarter Miles from Fazenda Arvoredo in Barra do Piraí to its new owners 'up the slope.'.. A transport truck was contracted to carry not only the mare, but also the bikes and their riders to Visconde de Mauá,  a secluded mountain village mostly known for its hippie / alternative lifestyle population, high altittude  (1400 to 2700 m ), lucky enough to be equally distant and far away from São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro .  The fact that its nice cool climate with plenty of  waterfalls and options for  wholesome organic meals does  make it very attarctive.

You might think biking basically 'downhill' would be a cinch, but in this summer of 2010 which has been an unusually 'Global Warming' type of summer, marked with daytime temperatures usually above 35 C  and frequently above 40C, it was not. This demanded of our bike riders a little 'survival strategy' - much like reptiles in deserts , T&L- took cover under the available bushes during the hottest hours of the day, biking by night and early mornings. The Maglite - as a bike headlight, was another such adaptation. Choosing back roads from point A to B, T&L were able to capture some interesting shots along the way, many of which show a typical rural Brazil  still existent but unknown or forgotten by most city dwellers.

Some of these takes edited and posted by Leandro on YouTube  include big black leeches trying to harvest 'city food' from T&L exposed body parts as they dipped in the creeks to cool down,. the occasional owl, old fazendas (plantation houses) and country food give a taste of the road trip. A little 'Santeria type' sanctuary found by a roadside waterfall - is also a perfect reminiscent that Brazil is still very sincretic in its religiousness - The Black Virgin, (N. S. Aparecida) the patron saint of Brazil....  All this, accompanied by great music can been seen in their YouTube posted video in two parts,

Part 1 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRk7xjVpZ1E
Part 2  - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbXqC4uTvqM

Sunday, February 28, 2010

Roots in the Lone Star State

Pará, is the second largest state of Brazil, comprising 16% of the country's territory. Its flag, is composed of a white stripe on a red background. White, reminds us of the Equator and the Amazon River that flows across the state. The white lone star is Spica a first order star which belongs to the Virgo constellation. Red symbolizes the state's people's strong blood, it's fighting spirit.

Thomas and myself spent a few days getting to know the city of Belém. Thomas's mother Ana has roots in the Amazon - Imbiriba, Guerreiro and Guimarães. We are investigating local family sources to uncover these tropical roots, taking advantage of my stay in town to teach a GIS course to the Fisheries postgrads at the Federal University of Pará.

The Saturday walk around town included a short visit to the Emilio Goeldi Natural History Museum and zoo-botanical park, where one can see animals and plants typical of this part of the world. The air humidity is stifling  - almost 100% - when its not raining... This season of the year where the air is thick, hot and moist is referred to by the locals as  'winter', mostly due to the fact it feels cooler because of the refreshing daily spells of rain, falling every afternoon. 
In the Amazon lowlands especially around the delta, sediments shift, water courses change places as well as levels from one rainy season to the next. Plant inhabiting these areas must cope with this  and to mantain vertical stability in the 'savage' inter-species botanical competition for light in the undercover layer of the tropical forest. all is fair. Palm trees may switch from 'root mode' ,  good for absorbing nutrients on the surface of the forest to 'spine mode' to help it defend its fruits from the many potential eager consumers present in the forest which may be able to climb up its trunks. Others plants will adjust to the shifting terrain by growing their massive trunks upon tabular roots spread over a wide area below the forest canopy.
Aerial roots are also a good way of always 'surface feeding'. It is generally accepted that most of the nutrients in tropical soils, especially in rainforests lie on the surface of soils, as falling leaves rapidly decompose.








Saturday, February 20, 2010

Berlin in Belém

The Amazon, was once the world's largest producer of rubber. That was long, long ago, and Belém on the mouth of the Amazon river the port of entry to this vast hinterland. The Portuguese had to fortify the area to fight back Dutch and French invaders coming from the North. Originally, this all belonged to the Tupinambas! The Portuguese allied themselves with the natives and managed to establish themselves with enough fortifications to control efficiently their claims in this part of the New World.

With the onset of the industrial revolution, rubber became more and more necessary and it made rubber barons in the Amazonian tropics from Belém to Manaus. This money brought in culture, and new theatre houses designed and built to match the best in Europe. In both cities many buildings and general urban infrastructure were built with rubber money.

Walking around town in Belém, you can see all kinds of foreign influence including the traditional designs of the Portuguese 'azulejos' (tiles) on the exterior walls of colonial town houses to French-style 'marquises' over commercial shops downtown.Giuseppe Antonio Landi, an architect recruited by the king of Portugal, D. João V, moved to Belém moved from Bologna, Italy to the this amazonian city where he built churches, palaces, and set himself up a farm where he lived until his death, never more returning to Europe! Belém and the province of Pará, was the most 'Portuguese' part of the Brazilian colony of the Portuguese empire, the last to acknowledge and join newly declared independent Brazil, only a year after the fact....! 

Paris in America. 
Because of its close ties to Europe, and cultural development, Belém became known as 'Paris in America'. A shop downtown comemorated this, back in 1870, being a 'must' for monsieurs et mesdames  wanting to buy fine imported fabrics. The shop is said to be a mini-version of Galleries Lafayette, and is called Paris n'América.

However, it was in Praça da República, the downtown square where the Municipal Theatre is found,  that my attention was caught by a series of sculptures which would probably passed pass unnoticed to most. In definitely Art Deco 30's style you can see 4 large sculptures. On at least one of them  is the foundry's signature - Guss Martin & Piltzing of Berlin. The foundry is very well known, being one of the four companies chosen to deliver medals, bronzes, memorabilia and souvenir items for the 1936 Olympic Games ! 

How did these sculptures end up in the Amazon? This is still a mystery. One explanation given by a local Venezuelan hippie who sells his souvenirs on the square is that local port customs authorities found these on a ship with no accompanying papers. They were thus apprehended, however no one ever came to claim them . Eventually the city council decided to put them in the square for exhibit. 
 

 

 

Friday, February 12, 2010

Orchid show in Paris....

Les orchidées du Jardin du Luxembourg

From 5 to 15 Feb, 2010 the greenhouse 'Orangerie' of the Senate at the Jardins du Luxembourg, Paris is hosting a fabulous exhibit comemorating 150 years of a tropical orchid collection.  It is a fragile and unique collection in the care of the French Senate since 1860. Originally the collection belonged to the Botanical Garden of the Medicine School of Paris installed since 1838 in the south corner of the Jardins du Luxembourg. 



In 1860, mayor Haussmann expropriated the Medicine School and its Botanical Garden to open the boulevard Saint-Michel. The Senate proposes to harbour the school’s orchid collection in its greenhouses already one of the richest collections in Europe, with over 1,300 hybrids and species belonging to over 150 genuses, Many hybrids were developed at the end of the 19th century. 

The exhibit includes selected exquisite orchids in flower at this time of the year, some of them very perfumed.
Already in 1838 Antonio José Peixoto, doctor to Brazil’s emperor D. Pedro II, himself a passionate lover of Natural History studies presented the curator of the collection to start on a collection of exotic orhcids and kicked off with a over 30 species including Laelia cinnabarina and Laelia cripsa.

A special exhibit shows the secrets of in vitro reproduction - a technique which has saved some very rare species and hybridization - another technique which has creates new varieties of orchids.

This exhibit comemorates the 150th birthday of the orchid collection on the same year UNESCO declares the International Year of Biodiversity.

Check out other pics...

Sunday, February 7, 2010

La Fête de St. Vincent

End of January, snow is back in Montmartre, but fortunately we have among other amenities, including our own backyard vineyard…

















And, being a Catholic neighborhood with its own church, why not celebrate St. Vincent, patron of vignerons and poissoniers? According to some vignerons chose him because of the suffix "vin" of his name, however it should be noted that supposedly a grape pressing wheel was used to torture him. The cult was initially started in Bourgogne where he is a patron especially to the bourguignon vignerons before the Champagne split. Both regions are close and related.










Au Relais, up Rue Montmartre, the Petits Poulbots defenders of the 'Republique de Montmartre' had already met up and rehearsed last week... They re-assembled and put on their show on Sat....30th

The "République de Montmartre" dates from May, 7th 1921. The society is charitable and cultural and keeps the ideology left by Poulbot, Willette, Forain, Neumont and Joë Bridge. Its charitable work benefits people with disadvantaged childhood or to connect artists.



Traditionally, members wear a red scarf, a cloak and a black hat such as the one worn by Louis Armand Aristide Bruant imortalized by Toulouse-Lautrec. Bruant left his home in 1866 at age fifteen, following his father's death, to find employment. Made his way to Montmartre where he hung out in the working-class bistros. Bougeois by birth, he soon adopted the earthy language of his haunts, turning it into songs that told of the struggles of the poor. Bruant began performing at cafe-concerts and developed a singing and comedy act that led to his being signed to appear at the LetChat Noir. Dressed in a red shirt, black velvet jacket, high boots, and a long red scarf, he soon became a star of Montmartre, and became one of Lautrec's first friends. In 1885, Bruant opened his own Montmartre club, a place he called "Le Mirliton".



So, I like seafood and wine!

All sat/sun, down around Abesses metro, just below the Sacre-coeur, the stands sold fresh oysters, fish including shark, and many, many clams…










The oyster growers had their own representation in stands. The produce wasn't exactly cheap ! 1 Euro the unit!

















The oyster industry, traditional in France still exists because of the ‘‘Resur’’ plan, which consisted of massive introductions of a new species, Crassostrea gigas, from the Pacific. After small-scale trials (1966–1970), several hundred tonnes of C. gigas were imported from Canada between 1971 and 1973 to form brood stock. The species became established and in the Marennes-Oleron region. Additionally 10,000 t of spat (young oysters) were imported from Japan. For the complete story check Ifremer.




Clam producers (not farmed, fisheries only!) were selling fresh clam meat with/without roe (corail) and seared 'clamkabob'.












For those searching for something cheaper - roasted chestnuts!


















In the end, a happy walk home up the steps so abundant in Montmartre which help us burn down some of those calories...