Wednesday, December 29, 2010

A cold walk in Scotland


December 2010 has been the coldest winter in 20 years, local papers say. It  was nice walking through Stirling again, after many years, even if it was ‘quite cool’… Walking through town, a real Christmas shopping atmosphere enveloped us participating in a technical workshop at Stirling University. The walk up to the castle was either over snow, or black ice on the road… very slippery. We passed the old town jail, and veered off to the town’s cemetery, a place I had not visited previously, Why not? Many celtic crosses later and a few falls, we could see a grand view of  the castle, and in the background Sheriffmuir hills covered in snow extending eastwards in the direction of St Andrews, a glimpse of the Ochils, with Alva and Alloa somewhere at the foothills.  It was reassuring to see Robert the Bruce, still with his hand on the sword’s hilt at the castle gate overlooking  Stirling. Back at the university, the pond had all but completely frozen, leaving just a small pool for the whole bird population to concentrate sadly, in need of rest, and some food. 
Stirling Castle


Robert the Bruce

Wallace monument, Sheriffmuir hills in background 
Some hungry frozen friends

Sunday, December 26, 2010

The sky is round

By Carina Sunesson



My grandmother, she would have been a hundreds years now, this week, maybe today. My grandmother, daughter born out of wedlock, daughter of a poor farmers child, Anna Sofia and “Father unknown”, Henrik, the son of a merchant. A family that never existed, a family that never was to be. A love story between two young people, living in the same little town but in different worlds, at another time. A child is born, a child that fifty-three years later would become my grandmother.

Her father was a vagabond that she never met, other than through his words. Words on letters, words on postcards, glowing and sparkling words, he was an artist and he painted the world with his words. He was one of eight siblings to a merchant from the south parts of Sweden, a man of adventure and respect who moved to the North parts of the country in his early years. He opened a bookshop, he opened another one, and another one. By the time he met his wife to be, Brita Catharina, the daughter of a shipper, he had stores all over the North parts of Sweden, he was a man of respect and honor.
Sometimes he went to visit his grandmother, who lived just outside town on a wealthy farm. The small road was covered by the endless forests of Sweden on both sides, and small typical houses of poor farmers was the only sign of life he was pass on his way to
visit his grandmother. The houses were simple, made in wood and painted in red, most of the houses where put close to each other, and they became tiny villages by themselves. In one of those houses a girl was living with her father, they were the poorest people around, the man of the house smelled vodka and lost dreams. But his daughter! It was the most beautiful girl he had ever seen, she was like an unreachable dream and Henrik fell in love. Henrik invented errands to his grandmothers house, just
to get a glimpse of Anna Sofia, and they started to see each other, they talked and they laughed, they loved and they played.
All of a sudden Anna Sofia was pregnant. A sign to the world of their forbidden love. New demands and terms were to rise in their lives, and their destinies would change for ever, their lives would never be the same again. Marriage was out of question, Henrik could never marry a girl who had a father who did nothing but let time and life pass by. Now was the time to make decisions and to make life regular again, back to normal.

Anna Sofia was sent to Stockholm before people would notice the accident and start gossiping about who the father could be. The father of Henrik paid for the arrangements, an investment to avoid shame and to maintain the respect that his name had.  Anna Sofia could come back home later if she wanted, she could adopt the baby, or give it away, anything but keeping it and bring it back.
A baby girl was born – my grandmother, in the month of June when the flowers are bursting in Sweden, when the summer nights are warm and soft like velvet. The sun was gentle the day she was born and Anna- Sofia never came back to her hometown. For ten years she did not live with her daughter, she was placed in a foster home at Mami Noa, one of Sweden´s most famous writers of the time. Anna Sofia visited her every weekend, my grandmother thought it was an aunt that came to see her. But the heart of Anna Sofia was breaking, she could not live the lies anymore. Her father was dead, she had no one, she wanted to be a mother, the love for the child was not possible to keep inside anymore. Anna Sofia went to get her child, and she never spent a day without her for as long as she lived.
Henrik was sent to America, he could spend a few years with his uncle who had emigrated a few years earlier, time would heal and people would forget about this story if he left for some time. Everything the uncle had written to his brother was not exactly true, life was more difficult than he cared to tell his family back home. His wife Anna had fell in love with another man on the ship over to America, she moved with him to Utah together with their children. The children did not carry his last name anymore, he was all alone, he went to California and he had no plans what so ever to care for a newphew. Life was hard as it was.
His uncle, Per Oscar, he had dreams of going to Brazil. He longed for happiness, some money to get by, he wanted to be alive! All those years when he had saved money for the tickets to go to the New World, all those long days when he sold his merchandise to the houses back home. No one had any money to buy his things, he started a bakery instead, he did anything to get his family and himself to America, to the adventure and to the possibilities in life. This all seemed so distant, just like it never existed. And there, in America, he was still no one, they spoke a language he did not understand, they had cars and horses and shops. No one needed him for anything, he was a stranger to everyone, one of hundreds of thousands, he was a stranger to himself. So no thank you, no nephew to care for. He went to Sao Paolo, he had met Kristina from his home village, love was once again embracing him. Per Oscar from a small village in Sweden, had found his place in life, and he became Pedro, a man living in Sao Paolo.
Henrik knew nothing about this, he left for America, eager to see his loved uncle again. In February 1910, a few months before his daughter was to be born, he entered the ship Tasso from the city of Trondheim in Norway. He wanted to see it all, America, Caribbean, the world! He wanted to travel where the winds brought him, he lived and he lived for life itself, for every breath, for every moment.
When my grandmother died, we found a cigar box in one of the closets. It was full of old letters and postcards, they were colored by time, worned but still painted with the breaths of time, still full of life and love. Caring, glowing and shining. She never told anyone of these letters, they were safe as a poker hand, it was her only piece in the puzzle that was her father, the only way she could talk to him, touch him. The letters belonged to her only, they were the deepest room of her soul. The last letter is dated 1955, the same year that Henrik died in San Francisco, California.
Henrik visited the Caribbean too, on the backside of a postcard he tells my grandmother about the stars in the round sky protecting the Caribbean nights. My grandmother never came here, she born in a time when travelling was not an option, a time when someone who emigrated was lost forever, and maybe existed in a few letters, if even that. The closest she ever came to this Caribbean island was by reading the words of her father, and through the life long journey of her heart.
Henrik never returned to Sweden. He left that day in February 1910 to never walk the grounds of his homeland again.  He stayed out there in the world living his adventures, and my grandmother stayed in Sweden waiting.
They never met. Time goes by, never resting, days and nights turn into years, generation after generation arrive and leave life,  and the great grandchild of Henrik was the one who ended up living under the stars in the round sky, protecting the Caribbean nights that he told his daughter, my grandmother about.
It was me.

Monday, August 23, 2010

Le regard de l'Aviateur

Its impossible to escape History walking through Rio. Not too far from my home walking Rua das Laranjeiras, I stumble upon an aviator reading details on his plane and about his feat, under a model of of the  flying boat  Savoia-Marchetti S.64 - a single-engine, single-spar wing, wooden biplane aircraft powered by a single Isotta-Fraschini Asso 500RI, 373 kW (500 hp) engine mounted between the upper and the lower wings.
Carlo Del Prete was a pioneer aviator of the 20’s who together with Arturo Ferrarin flew the "Santa Maria" - a Savola Marchetti S64, between Monticello, close to Rome, Italy and Touros, close to Natal, Brazil in the year 1928. The 7,188 Km span was covered in 49 hours 19 minutes - a world record in direct flights.  There was great commotion in Italy as well as in Brazil.
Treated as heroes in Brazil, Carlo and Arturo stayed on for a while and later flew to the capital at the time,  Rio de Janeiro, where they were received with honors. Carlo Del Prete eventually died in the air flying an S62 which crashed in Guanabara Bay in August 1928. Carlo was held as a hero in both Italy and Brazil as well as a symbol of approximation between both countries. They had planned a visit to Rio Grande do Sul where large Italian immigrant communities exist. The plane for this trip was not well prepared and as a result, it crashed over the Bay of Guanabara, falling from a height of 40m, where Del Prete suffered many severe bruises and exposed fractures on both legs. He was rescued by a passing boat but died as a result of gangrene infection after unsuccessful treatment of the multiple injuries he sustained. A full account of his story (in Portuguese) can be found at The peaceful sculpture in Laranjeiras marks the site where  the two airmen received their homage at the Italian Embassy.

Traxler’s Blue Frangipani

Bernhard Traxler is becoming an ‘old’ friend of mine... basically its his long  blond hair turning gray... but also because I have known him over the years, and  feel close to his way of reporting nature in his works of art... I was initially attracted to this Austrian born ‘hippie’ of the Hippie Fair in Ipanema because of a fly on one of his canvases... Well, I though it was a fly, a common housefly sitting on what struck to me as a very, very small canvas, maybe about 5 x 5 cm. As I approached to examine the insect, other small objects popped before my eyes on other Lilliputian canvases, such as a recently extinguished match stick, small butterflies and so on... Very realistic, and all very tiny, painted with the help of some magnifying glass which belonged to a grandfather in Austria...! We, at the university, did not accomplish the level of detail Traxler managed, even though operating modern powerful Zeiss lens-mounted stereoscopic binocular dissecting scopes ! I took Traxler down to look at these one day and he exclaimed ‘That’s not fair ! ‘ ...

Traxler is creative and mutating... Fortunately, I got a hold of one or two copies of his ‘nautical chart watercolours of Rio’  phase where  he etched in with watercolours, in stark perspective discrepancy to the original navigation chart, the geologic marvels of Cidade Maravilhosa along the coastline, including Gavea Rock, the Corcovado (where Christ the redeemer statue is mounted) Sugar Loaf and so on... What an insight...
Traxler's view of the universe (from his hammock)

Now, its the Blue Frangipani...Why not? That’s what irritates me! These artists look at the same things we scientists do, but can come up with a totally marvellous and more interesting, entertaining not to mention decorative depiction of natural biological beauty. Even using just one colour! And all this done from a view from his hammock in Maricá, Rio de Janeiro... it’s humiliating! Best thing is - he can actually sell the product of his insight while we have to chase grants....

By the way, for those like Terri, looking to contact Bernhard, try this email: bernhardtraxler@ig.com.br

Monday, August 16, 2010

Blogging with Brau

Braulio de Nazaré and little friend Maria Eduarda

 Brau (Braulio de Nazaré) is our old time friend and former crew champ of Botafogo Football and Crew Club in Rio de Janeiro. I had the pleasure of having lunch with him and 'Prince' Luis Sacopan, head of Quilombo Sacopan, and his little grandchild Maria Eduarda. 









Luis Sacopan is not only head of the proud Sacopan people, but also an accomplished musician,  a local 'pagodeiro' (Rio roots samba style) and master of the Sacopan carnival band known as 'Rola Preguiçosa.' Our lunch  meeting was 'assisted' by 'Scooby-Doo' the resident canine, better known to neighbors as 'O Psicopata'...
Prince Luis Sacopan and Princess Maria Eduarda

O 'Psicopata'
So, over Tia Tininha's wonderful medium-rare done contra-filé, loose white rice, very honest  not watered-down black beans and sauteed freshly cut mustard leaves on garlic, I got updated on the local ecology happenings and misadventures of the Quilombo's inhabitants such as the close encounter with an unusually large live specimen of Boa constrictor (no photo available) which just 'happened' to descend into the Quilombo's patio (probably looking for some fresh free-range and live chicken), and the forest fires of last month - which sent neighbors scurrying out of their homes in the next door 'Chácara' condominium just above the Quilombo. Torrential  rains earlier this year left huge erosion scars on the hillsides above and around Quilombo Sacopan.

 
 
 
 
The city council has restored, to a limited extent, the the terrain from the erosion caused by recent rains. It claims the planted grass will help contain future landslides... Hmmm.. I'm not too convinced this will really work...It looks promising where the grass is in open sunlight, such as on the hillside next by, but  in areas closer to the quilombo, i.e. in the midst of the forest, sun-loving grass is not doing very well,.
 
A visit by a friendly British agronomist is soon due, and we'll see what he will propose...

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Pip, Pip, Hooray!


Finally, (baby) Pip is around and believe it or not, smiling! He does seem to have a very peculiar sense of humor, probably acquired locally in Southampton.... Initially, I had my doubts as to if he was really ever going to smile, but Carolina reassured me saying it was just a question of time, before he could properly focus his little eyes... And sure enough, the day has come, and now that he can focus on our faces, he apparently thinks we are hilarious! Judging from the Dad and Mom's smiles, there should be no problem... But he is definitely a determined little guy! I noticed he does like to listen to people, and specially French, in the kitchen, where he seems to enjoy the aroma of Yvonne's cooking with Radio Monte Carlo playing in the background. He says 'Obrigado' to Pia, Bitty, Denise, Maria Lúcia and all of Vóvó Lolô's fan club and Thank You to all those who sent him a mountain of presents which make him look and feel happy! Carolina has now set up a number of 'stations' around the house to have this restless little guy enjoy himself with different scenarios, toys and distractions... Otherwise, as with most little guys his age, it's feed & sleep! (not to mention other also important functions...)



2 Cousins



Thomas, the Designer, Pedro, the Architect to be... At home, discussing projects for the future close and near, such as taking off to Australia for a course in Environmental Architecture, and building new products with composite materials. Fine times!